Henry Coe Fastpacking: Not Dead Yet!

"I only wish you might have beheld the scene. Five large oaks, their branches festooned with lichens, are our canopy. The bright fire lights up their trunks and foliage and the group around. The moonlight lies soft on the plain and lights up the black mass of the peak, Ojo de Agua de la Coche, that rises back of the camp, its black outlines sharp against the blue sky."

-Henry Brewer

Back to Henry Coe State Park!  Yes!  This time I brought my own personal photographer.  All pictures were taken by Toshi Hosaka, thanks to his marginally operating camera, which was 100% more effective than my minimally operating camera...

There was finally some rain here in California a couple of weeks ago, so it seemed like if there was a time to hit up Henry Coe it would be in this window.  This park is notorious for scarcity of water, and it is prudent to cover ground when you know you can get to it.  I had a difficult trip here last year by myself, but this year Toshi was excited to join me and it was a pleasure to show him some of this rugged wilderness.

We started from the headquarters and headed down to China Hole with plans of doing a counter-clockwise navigation of the park, hitting up several peaks and waterfalls along the way.

On the way down to China Hole.

Joanne likes this pic.

China Hole.

Can you spot the trail?

My favorite pic.

This is classic Coe.

Dinner time.

Time to bag our last peak for the day.

A goal for me for day one was to try and find a waterfall down in grizzly gulch.  We made our way down to the south end of the park and found an intersection with the gulch.  We then followed the stream up, hopping rocks, wading, skirting along on the hillsides until we found our first waterfall.  Then Toshi suggested we could climb the waterfall and keep going, but on further inspection we decided to climb around the side of the waterfall and we kept following the stream.  It was an pretty, secluded place.  We kept finding small falls, and then found another big one.  Once again we resolved to try to climb around it, but this time the crumbly rocks jostled our confidence a little and we decided to bail and bushwhack up the hill to try to connect with the trail.  On the way up to the trail we came across an old shack/ranch house/whatever, but it was in the middle of the woods and it was old.  We checked it out.  Plenty of old artifacts and an eerie, lonely feeling.  It is fun to find random stuff like that.

We made it back up to the trail and made our way towards the ultimate destination for the day: Wilson Peak.  The sun was just going down and we decided to sit down and have dinner and then do a night hike up the peak and camp at the top.  I warned Toshi about the exposed ridges at night, how the wind can be pretty miserable, but I had a tent to test out and Toshi was really set on the idea, so Wilson Peak it was.

It was a full moon, so we didn't even need our headlamps.  A peaceful, beautiful night.  We located the peak and set up camp only to spot a line of lights smoothly cruising some trails in the distance.  They kept getting closer and eventually made it up to our peak and then kept going.  Just some mountain bikers out for a night ride.  People know how to have fun!  It turns out there was some pretty good wind during the middle of the night, but Toshi said it actually worked pretty good to keep condensation down in the bivy setup.

I think Toshi likes this place.

Random rock.

The next morning we made our way over to Kelly Peak, where Toshi actually found a summit register, which he was totally stoked about.  I was out of water by this point so we took it easy going towards Pacheco Falls, our next destination.  We passed "Live Oak Spring" along the way, but it just turned out to be a trough filled with water and green stuff... no flow.  So we just decided to make it down to the falls and get our water there.  Pacheco Falls was another beautiful waterfall.  We filled up there, had some breakfast, Toshi got his coffee, and then we had an argument about whether we should take the steep road back to the trail to put us on track for Mustang Peak, or try a shortcut and climb the ridge.  I saw way too much poison oak and bailed, turns out it probably would not have mattered anyway as I ended up with PO all over after this trip!

The hike to Mustang Peak was a long, exposed fireroad.  The views were quite spectacular, but the sun was making us pay.  The Peak is worth it though.  It isn't nearly the tallest point in the park, but the view-shed is terrific.

Strange creatures lurking.

After Mustang Peak, we followed some more exposed fireroad down to Orestimba creek with our next destination being Rooster Comb.  The Rooster Comb is a really neat rock formation.  Toshi and I climbed to the top, took in some awesome views of the valley and had some fun scrambling along the ridge.  Toshi tried to find the most vertical section of rock to test out his climbing skills.  I spotted him from the bottom and it was pretty cool to watch him scale those rocks!

Playing on the Rooster Comb!

Can you spot the Toshi?

Can you see him now?

From top of Rooster.

More from Rooster.

Another interesting rock formation near the comb.

There are plenty of these at Coe!

Getting ready to climb Stakes!

After rooster we kept heading north along the creek expecting to fill up on water at the confluence of Robison Creek and Orestimba just as the sun was going down.  There we had our dinner and prepared for another night hike.  This time we were going to be climbing from one of the low points in the park at 950 ft to the highest point at Mount Stakes at about 3800 ft.  It was another incredibly bright moon lighting the way for us, and this trail picked up elevation FAST.  It was definitely one of the longest, steepest, most sustained climbs that I have ever done.  And I was glad that we did it with the sun gone.  This is another hike that is exposed and the sun will get you fast, especially considering there really is no water around once you leave the creek.  Last year I tried to take something called the Pinto Creek trail to get up there.  But that was a mistake.  I ended up bushwhacking to the top and taking up most of my day doing it, all the while getting pretty dehydrated.  The trail we took this year was 100x better.  We got to the top of the ridge (not quite the summit yet) by about 9:30 I think and set up camp.  I was having some terrible issues with my nose bleeding on the way up and would end up making a mess of things that night, but it got better the next morning.  That night was a peaceful night with hardly any wind.

Next morning on the ridge.

The next morning we followed the dirt road on top of the ridge to Mt. Stakes.  We then had a debate about how to get down the mountain, eventually deciding on following a dirt road that we could see plainly following the ridge down towards the red creek valley,  It was the road that matched up pretty good with a map that Toshi had (we were no longer in Henry Coe, so that map wasn't really that useful).  We followed it down, but then reached a four way intersection.  Toshi decided we should go straight, but then after following it down for half a mile it pretty much fizzled out into the manzanita brush.  We decided that it was too much work to go back to the intersection where the next pick might just dead end us as well, so we bushwhacked from this point.  This was really unpleasant for me in my shorts, but I did it before and knew it would heal up just fine.  The legs did look pretty gnarly afterwards though, and I did step on something sharp that went all the way through my shoe and punctured my foot.  Oh well.  

Stakes!

We knew we were technically not in the park anymore and roaming around on someone's property, but there was not sign of humans anywhere.  It is pretty desolate out there!  We made our way down to red creek road and then followed that back into the park and all the way to the chaparral trail.  Last year I had asked the rangers whether I could go through this little section of the map that said it was private property (completely enclosed by the park), because that was what I deemed necessary to get to the Orestimba Wilderness in the most efficient manner.  They shut me down of course, but this time as we headed up the chaparral trail I knew we were going to be intersecting with this "private property" to try and make it back to the car by nightfall.  We got to the top of the ridge and there was county line road.  No indications that it was private anything, just looked like another trail.  In fact, there was nothing up there, except a dirt road that led to bear mountain (which is in the park).  It was baffling my how anyone would this land would be useful for any private concerns.  Well, now I know, don't worry about that stretch, it's all good.  We bagged bear mountain and then made our way down to the east fork of the coyote river.  I was pretty hot at this point and delighted in a five minute soak in the stream.

Red Creek road, way above red creek.

Best lizard ever.

There's Red Creek.

Toshi and I followed the "Narrows" back to China Hole and made our way back up to the car right as the sun was going down.  Perfect timing.  

Post trip it turns out the Poison Oak, that I probably got on the first day scrambling around the waterfalls and such was really bad.  As in it is probably the worst I have ever had it.  But I am surviving.  Going to Henry Coe does not assure you poison oak reaction, I was just stupid.  You can avoid those off trail sections, or you could wear more cloths and be really careful with the cloths once you take them off.  I have not yet learned.  I am not totally sure why I come back to this park.  It has to be the combination of it's sheer size and ruggedness, along with it's proximity to where I live.  There really is a lot to explore and it is not easy hiking.  Your skills definitely get tested.  It is also amazing to me how few people actually get back into the park.  Toshi and I saw no one on Sunday until we were within 5 miles of headquarters.  The park just seems very underutilized.  But that makes it like a cool secret and secluded getaway.

The waterfall pics:

Camping Setup:

Toshi

Jeremy

This was my first fastpacking trip trying out a tent.  This is the mountain hardware supermega ultra light 2, which is a mouthful, but basically means it is a really light, and really expensive two person tent.  I got a good deal on it thanks to Judy Hosaka (who had access to a factory outlet).  It is pretty much what I would consider a standard for this class- aluminum poles, double wall, about 2.5 pounds.

This is called a vestibule.  Keeps my stuff dry.

Taj Mahal.

See...

On the ridge at 3600 ft.

There are some plusses and minuses to the tent:

Plusses:

1. Clear boundary between your realm and natures realm.  This is really nice.  The different rustling sounds you hear, the bugs buzzing, etc.  Doesn't matter as much when you know there is a barrier.
2. Don't worry about bugs.
3. Shields from wind and rain.
4. Nice enclosed, clean space to put your stuff.  I could lay out my stuff sacks, map, etc, and just fall asleep and not worry about putting it all away somewhere.
5. Good ventilation keeps stuff dry.  Less need for a "dry out" break during a sunny day.

Minuses:

1. Clear boundary between your realm and natures realm.  I really enjoy being out in the open.  I really enjoy falling asleep under the stars.  Being a little exposed is kinda nice sometimes.  It is just a different experience with a tent.
2. One to two pounds heavier base weight.
3. Takes up a ton of volume in your pack.  I barely fit everything in.  There is no way I could fit it in with a bear canister, which would be tough for the Sierra.
4. A little more setup and tear down time.
5. Wind causes a lot of noise.

Overall, I think it has a place in my fastpacking gear lineup.  It just depends on what conditions I think I might face and what kind of experience I am looking for.  And it will be great if I get to take the wife or a kid out on an adventure...

Other Gear Notes:

• The pack sustained some more damage on this trip.  The bushwhacking really takes it's toll on the mesh pocket, but a little sowing job ought to fix it.  The Gossamer Gear Gorilla is still kicking!
• I had to buy new black diamond ultra distance z-poles.  They were fantastic of course, I just hope they last longer this time...
• Everything I usually bring worked like clockwork.  The jetboil is about as efficient as they come.  I was hoping to finish off the remnants of the last two canisters of fuel that I had, and cooking for Toshi and me, we only finished off one of them.
• Food:  A couple of backpacking indian dinners, Jerky, some vacuum packed salmon, assorted dried fruits, "Joanne Bars", chocolate.  That was about it.  I think I have my backpacking food dialed in now.
• Bandana for neck.  Worked great.  My neck suffered after last years trip, but it was fine this time, and if you wet it down whenever you get the chance, it really does help keep you cool.
• Toshi borrowed Marc's SPOT for this trip.  It was a handy thing to have around, just in case of emergency, but the best part about it was when we got back and could see our tracks through the park.  Definitely a cool gizmo.

CTTS #4

Before I dive into the relatively uneventful fourth iteration of the annual Cypress to the Sea (CTTS) migration, I think I need to catch up on the last couple of months of running for me.

November and December were pretty laid back for me training wise.  I definitely backed off of the mileage and intensity, focusing more on daily movement, strength, and storage of energy (also known as getting fat).  It was a conscious decision to have an "off-season" as I have come to realize that year around training is just unsustainable and un-preferable for my well being.  Last year I took all of December totally off from training which had the awful effect of making "getting back in shape" an incredibly painful experience.  I needed it though.  I was burnt out.  I also learned some valuable things when I did try and come back from "no running", as in, don't rush things, or else you pay.  This past off-season I was not burnt out and just wanted to really recharge the batteries, so I opted for a more active layoff.  I think it payed off.

January I slowly picked up the training once again and everything has been going really well.  I felt like I was getting stronger with every run.  I also changed up my training this year as last years training was obviously woefully insufficient as evidenced from my race performances.  I have a theory of the culprit:  the easy runs were TOO easy.  As in I never allowed my easy runs to be the driver in my aerobic development and just lived for the workout.  I generally tweak something with my training plan every year to see what works for me, and just working out did not deliver.  So now I am making the easy runs the emphasis of my training with a few workouts thrown in.  The aerobic development has been coming along nicely with a typical week of running looking a little like this:

Saturday: 18 mile trail run

Sunday: 16 mile trail run

Monday: 6 mile in the am, another 2 at noon followed by some gym work

Tuesday: 13.5 in the am, walk at noon

Wednesday: 7 in the am, 2 + gym at noon

Thursday: intervals in the am, 6 mile at noon, racquetball in the pm

Friday: 5.5 in the am, 2+gym at noon

Usually 75 to 85 mpw.

The weekend of CTTS was a big one from a "long-run" perspective.  I had not really had a long-run in a while.  What I mean by long run is something in the 5+ hour range.  On Saturday I participated in the "Second Saratoga Fat Ass".  It is a 50k challenging trail run with three 10 mile loops starting from the Saratoga Gap.  The last two years I quit after two loops, so I had a little bit of redemption intended for myself in this run.  I took it easy because I knew that I had to recover in two days so I could tackle CTTS on Monday.  I allowed room for canceling CTTS if things didn't go too well, but thankfully everything weny without a hitch and recovery was cake.  I started out on the Gap trail running the first couple of miles with Amy Burton and catching up on how things are going with the Burtons lately.  Once we hit the downhill at the woods trail I started to pick up the pace a little bit and was seeing if I could catch up to Pierre and Keith Blom.  I had them in my sights by the Castle Rock Trail Camp and then took a shortcut, hoping to catch them.  Actually I figured they took the shortcut too, but they went the long way (Keith later explaining to me that it is good training to NOT take the easy way in anything - probably good advice for 100 training).  We then ran the rest of the loop together while I chatted their heads off about running, training, the usual stuff.  By the time we refueled at the Gap for the start of loop two, Pierre took off on me.  I have a feeling he was getting sick of listening to me so he put some distance on me.  I told Keith that I should probably try and keep pace with Pierre, so I took off after him.  But he was bombing the STTS and I came to the obvious conclusion that he was done "chatting" with me, so I just cruised along.  That is how the three of us separated ourselves.  Near the end of the climb out of the second loop Keith caught up to me with a surprisingly strong hike.  I really need to pick up some hiking tips from some of the older folks who just seem to know how to push the uphills when running seems to be out of the question!  I spent some time refilling my hydration pack at the trail camp, knowing that this was probably my last chance for water (I forgot to bring some in my truck for refueling!).  So then I just finished the hike and then ran the last three miles of the loop to the Gap.  This was all very smooth, I wasn't really pushing myself, so it was just cruisin...  I started loop three and then hit the steep downhill of charcoal road.  Near the bottom I found Keith again and he cheered me on.  He was definitely having a good day.  His PR on this particular course was 5:59, and he was on pace to destroy that time.  He took a little break and I went on.  The long climb on the Table Mountain trail is always fun for me.  I like the single track, wooded, secluded nature of it and it is a nice long hike.  I found Amy near the top on the outbound where she indicated that she was just going to do an out-n-back on the single track to avoid the fire-road, which actually sounded like a pretty good idea to me.  She also indicated that her legs were just shot, but she seemed to be in good spirits and it was good to see her toughing it out as she was sharing her difficulties with getting her fitness back from the holiday break.  Later on the Gap trail Keith L. was on the out-bound for the last loop and told me that Pierre only had half a mile on me.  I thought that for sure he was farther away than that, so that put an extra pep in my step to make me think that maybe I could catch him.  But it was too late.  He finished in 5:20, I had 5:25, and Keith rolled in with a 5:30, taking 29 minutes off of his PR!  It was a great run and the hot dog lady was there so I wolfed down a couple of dogs and sodas, the best six bucks I ever spent.  Amy finished in a sub 6 with a long-bounding stride, evidently her legs returning to her miraculously (I'm sure the thought of the sub 6 had nothing to do with it...).  And I just assume that Keith L. finished because he is tough like that.

Then it was time for some serious recovery to get ready for Monday.  I slept a lot and ate a lot.  I even did my Sauna-Steam Room-Cold pool routine on Sunday morning.  Everything worked like clockwork and I was ready to roll on Monday morning:

Start from the house at 5:30

Rancho by 6:50

Strange lookin bearded dude at the top of PGE

Black by 8:25

Table by 9:55

STTS by 10:25

Waterman Gap by 11:30

China Grade by 12:33

BB Headquarters at 1:17

Berry Creek Falls still going strong through the drought

I always love seeing this view

Ocean by 3:15

Not Bad!

My posse.

Partner in crime.

I wish I could explain some drama or some sort of incredible obstacle overcome, but really, everything just went about perfect.  The weather was basically as good as could be.  The one hitch I suppose was that they capped off the water at Waterman Gap, which is a very strategic refill point on this route, but I had scouted this out in December and knew it was going to be a possibility, so some rationing was in order.  Never fun, but it wasn't too bad.  Joanne had made me some granola bars that were perfect for my calories and really yummy.  I covered the 45 miles in about 9:45, which was very close to the same splits from last year.  Joanne and the kids had arrived at the beach around 1 p.m. so the kids got all kinds of beach time before I arrived.  After I touched the water they made sure I checked out the Pirate ship they had constructed out of drift-woods and rocks, and the boys showed me their rock throwing skills.  All in all, I am very happy with the fourth year in a row of completing this trek of mine that was my original impetus for getting into ultra-running.  I hope I can keep this streak going!