Monday, July 27, 2015

Backpacking the Rae Lakes Loop (with some bonus destinations)

Okay, so maybe there are bears in the Sierra after all.  I think Sachin saw like nine bears on this trip.  I have to say that King's Canyon National Park was as wild and beautiful as I had even dared to imagine.  The place is immense.  And what I mean by immense is that everything was on such a scale that I had never experienced before!  Everything was just so big.

When I climbed Mount Whitney a couple of years ago and then hiked north along the John Muir Trail (JMT) and left through Onion Valley, I had gotten a glimpse of what was to be seen in these mountains.  I vowed to return and do some more exploring.  I read about the Rae Lakes loop - a popular 43 mile aesthetic trail loop that features the heart of this wilderness starting and ending at Roads End which is a mere 4.5 hour drive from where I live.  The trick was to obtain a wilderness permit for the hike.  I'm not going to go into the details of how to get one of these permits, because that could be a whole other blogpost - but let's just say that we were very fortunate to end up getting day-of permits when we arrived at Roads End Permit station at 10:30 a.m. on a beautiful summer Friday morning.  The plan was to complete the loop counter-clockwise with some bonus out and back trips to some interesting destinations.  First we wanted to explore East Lake and Lake Reflection which was another ten miles.  Then we wanted to see the Sixty Lakes Basin which would add another six miles.  And finally I wanted to hike another big pass and thought that Baxter Pass at 12500 ft would be a good challenge - but we decided to bail on that last one - I will explain later.  The picture below summarizes our trip of almost 60 miles in 2.5 days:

This was our "Rae Lakes Loop".  Orange was day 1, blue and purple day 2, and green day 3.  We did bonus out-n-back trips to East Lake/Lake Reflection and Sixty Lakes Basin.  Thanks to Sachin for capturing all this great GPS data!
Another pic of where we went - thanks Sachin!

I think what was key in our luck of getting the wilderness permit was that it was Sachin's thirtieth birthday!  When I sent out an email to my buddies to see who would want to go on this trip with me, of course Sachin says: Yes!  He always says yes.  And off we went...

The obligatory start photo.  Notice the canyon walls in the background.  We are at around 5500 ft.  The walls are topping at 9000.


To the adventure we go!

Following Bubbs Creek up the canyon.

Really funky rock formations.
Bubbs Creek Videos:







Looking down at where we started.


Looks like a big chunk of this mountain just fell off and left a perfect shelf.

Big rocks.

I love seeing the water pour down solid rock.


As we took the trail after the junction towards East Lake we stumbled upon a brown bear and a couple of her cubs.  They were pretty much blocking our way so we just waited for them.  All the while Sachin and I are attempting to get some good footage.  I don't have any here, but later in this post there are a couple of good videos of other bears.  The highlight of the trip for Sachin was definitely the bears!

Crossing Bubbs and heading towards East Lake.
Credit: Sachin
The setting as we make our way up to East Lake.
Going up towards East Lake was a blast.  This was definitely the trail less traveled.  I think the popular loops and trails can get crowded - for good reason - if someone gets out to the mountains only so often and wants to check off the bucket list, then they will hit up the popular stuff.  The thing is there is plenty of awesomeness with less crowding if you are willing to explore.

East Lake.
credit: Sachin


Now moving on towards Lake Reflection.
Trail getting fun.  Credit: Sachin




The trail towards Lake Reflection was not nearly as well maintained.  There was some scree and talus sections and a little bit of bush whacking.  At least navigation wasn't really an issue.  I mean, you just follow the water!

credit: Sachin


Lake Reflection.
credit: Sachin
Lake reflection might have been my favorite part of the trip.  Something about hidden gems makes it that much more special.



Backpacking meals are really convenient, but they take forever at altitude!  We had to double the cook time at 10000 ft, which meant that we were holding bags of cooking food for 20 to 25 minutes and then eating.  We just decided to walk with it.  Credit: Sachin

After we descended back to Bubbs Creek the sun was starting to set and casting some brilliant evening light against the rocks.  We climbed up the valley keeping an eye open for a nice camp spot.

Making our way up Bubbs Creek again.



Not a bad spot for the night, right?
The camping spot that we picked was spectacular.  The views were out of this world and there weren't many mosquitos.  And it is so nice to fall asleep to the sound of a waterfall!  It was a bit chilly up here, I bet it got down to the high 30s, but I slept pretty good.  I had another one of those vivid dreams that I actually remembered:

I dreamt that Sachin and I were bivied up but we were in a field in a different place with a road down the hill from us and some houses on the other side of the road.  I was laying on my back looking at the sky and saw some michelin men floating down to us.  They weren't really michelin men, they were just like michelin men, no bumps, just white blown up limbs.  As they got closer they eyes light up red.  Then they fell on us and started to suffocate us.

Glad it was a dream.
The sounds of the waterfall were coming from right next to us.

Next morning as we make our way up the JMT towards Glenn Pass.

Wide open high alpine landscape.


Views of the Charlotte Creek drainage.  This creek would eventually merge into Bubbs where we were the day before.  Notice the cool rock scoop formation!

Apparently a member of the rabbit family.

Making our way up to Glenn Pass
The climb up to Glenn Pass was a blast.  I mean it was a blast for me.  I love working my up a big climb, sucking down air that isn't delivering nearly enough oxygen to my muscles.  It is such a worthy challenge!  And the views just get better and better the higher up you go.  I may not be moving very fast, but it is a slow methodical one foot in front of the other, and eventually you are rewarded with the top.  Sachin was hurting pretty bad.  The altitude was doing a number on him and I felt bad about that.  Nothing is fun when your head is aching so much that you can't think about anything else.  I have to say though: he toughed it out and got it done!


Views from the pass.

See the zizags?  We went up those to get to the pass.
Early in the climb I had heard voices from what I believed to just be a big land slide flowing down from the pass.  As I got closer I realized that the trail actually switchbacked straight up that landslide!  You may not be able to tell from the picture above, but that is an incredibly steep hill going straight down to the lake.
Looking all the way down to Rae Lakes from the Pass


Rae Lakes


Starting to leave Rae Lakes to go explore Sixty Lakes Basin.

Some of the "Sixty Lakes"
The Sixty Lakes Basin was a little bit of a let-down.   Everyone that we had encountered so far had been building it up as this wondrous place.  I thought it was average with above average amount of mosquitoes - blech!


Working on his tan...




This is what bears do for fun...
It is telling that half of the pictures that Sachin took of me I am stuffing my face with food. credit: Sachin


Back on the JMT at Rae Lakes

Finn Dome.


Dollar Lake.
At Dollar lake we had a decision to make:  Was Sachin up for the Baxter Pass out and back?  He convinced me that he wanted nothing to do with that climb and I totally got it.  We discussed options that included allowing me to go tag the pass and then meeting up - but then he had the idea that we could head back to Roads End early and then go see the Giant Sequoia.  I really didn't like the idea of splitting up and I enjoy being a team with Sachin, so we went with his plan.  I had an incredibly fulfilling trip up to this point anyways.  I had seen so much and was so happy with the way things had gone, there was no let-down here.

Looking down the valley - that is where we are headed.

Bear Video #1:



Really cool bridge.  Only one person at a time...



Filtering water from Woods Creek.  credit: Sachin


Camping out above Woods creek.  I tried out tying off the bug-net of my bivy to create an enclosed space and keep the mosquitos at bay... it worked really well.

Sachin had the unfortunate luck to get a puncture in his mattress.  His was not a restful nights sleep...



Credit: Sachin



Woods Creek Videos:







Yeah, this is real.


Mist Falls.
Bear Video #2:



What a great trip!





A few pics from Duncan Canyon 2015

This was my fourth year in a row of volunteering at the Duncan Canyon Aid Station at mile 24 of the Western States 100 mile endurance run.  Sachin and I drove up again this year and had a great time with friends/teammates of the Quicksilver Running Club that hosts this aid station.  Here are a few pics:

Getting the caffeine buzz going in the morning.

Pierre, Jim, and Steven were all helping out.  The four of us had run in the 24 hour race the weekend prior...

The breakfast buffet - and Guy - he is the one with the tats.

Jill and others getting their fill.

I think best costume went to Clare.

The aid station getting geared up!

One of the best vistas for an aid station!


The wildflowers on the course.

The western states trail.

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

San Francisco Summer Solstice 24 Hour Race Report 2015

They say that if you want to loose weight the most effective thing to do is to cut back on calories going in (eat less).  The is because of the following reasoning: You can burn about 600 calories in a one hour run.  Or you could not eat a chocolate shake from macdonalds.

What they didn't think of though was what if you ran 24 hours.  That is like 14400 calories, or about 4 lbs of body fat (1 lb of fat is worth about 3500 calories).  Of course I'm not making an exact calculation here because I'm not even talking about glycogen reserves being utilized and the extra calories taken in during 24 hours of running, but this is my blog so I can make up any math I want.

Enter the San Francisco Summer Solstice 24 hour race.  But first, a little update and what has been going on in my running world:  Since having a blast at the 4 mph challenge back in March it has been pretty quiet on the training and racing front.  First was the attack of the killer cold.  I had not had a cold hit me this hard in a long time.  Usually I can run through a cold.  Not this one.  Next, I started hitting the hills to get ready for the big vert Ohlone 50k.  I felt pretty confident with my fitness going in, but then the race was cancelled due to a freak rain we got that scared the park into pulling the permits for the race for some reason.  After that let-down I sort of just goofed off for a while because I couldn't figure out my next move.  I knew about the San Francisco 24 hour race because it was part of the PA series that our club competes in, but I had thought that there was no way that I could run it because of racing Ohlone, family trip to Kansas, and helping out at Duncan Canyon at WS with Quicksilver.  But when I studied the calendar a little closer I realized that the race actually fell on the weekend that I was going to be home alone with nothing better to do, so naturally I signed up.  

Not the most focused training around.  The bars represent the amount of miles that were run in each week. The big bars are about 120 miles.
The Summer Solstice 24 hour is a race where they give you 24 hours to run as many laps around the lagoon at crissy fields in San Francisco as you can.  One lap is about 1.061 miles.  And it is completely flat.  There are three components that one should probably have in their training to do their best at this race:  lots of flat running practice, lots of volume (many miles per week), and really long training runs (to teach muscular endurance).  From the graph above you might have been able to tell that I didn't really do any of that.   Oh well, it was going to be a new experience and I was determined to have some fun no matter what the outcome.

Here are some pics to give some life to the one mile loop:

The Lagoon

Team blue. Left to right: Stephen, Jim and Keith.
Quicksilver had six guys in the race.  Running side by side in the picture above are Jim Magil and Stephen Strauss, two men battling for the 60-70 year old age group points.  In fact, Jim said the only reason he was running the race was because Stephen signed up and he had to protect his title.  You gotta love it when the grey hairs get competitive with each other.

I think there is a bridge back there somewhere...

Alcatraz in the distance.

The promonade. Views of the city just under the clouds.

Another lap down.
I started out with a simple enough strategy:  I would shuffle two laps at 9 minute per mile pace, then one walk lap, then one fast lap (maybe 7 to 8 minute per mile pace), then a walk lap.  And repeat.  As long as I could.  My thought process was that I would be using different sets of muscles for the stride lengths and movements required, thereby prolonging muscular fatigue.  But this didn't really end up working that good.  My walking muscles were already sore by 50k, and I couldn't run fast after that point anyways.  It seems I would have been much better off if I would have done what everyone else did.  Run as slowly as I felt comfortable with for as long as I could and then mix in the walking when that is all I could do.  Ultra-running really is a fly-and-die kind of sport.  In distance running they say that the best races come from even pacing, but I think it is telling that ultra runners almost as a rule run positive splits all the time.  Some experts claim that we just don't know what we are doing, but I don't see them out there doing anything better.

John Brooks (left), is the guy that makes this race happen.

Sachin doesn't even look like he just ran a hundo last weekend...
The race venue really was top notch.  I loved the setting.  The aid station was great.  There was tons of support.  It would be a little nicer to have all dirt to run on, but you can't have everything.  While my walking muscles were complaining early on, my shuffle legs were still pretty fresh and energy was good, so I was in high spirits for the first part of the race.  Once the fog started burning off and we got a little sun I started feeling some muscle cramping coming on.  Around this time my buddy Eric from work showed up.  I had told him I was doing this race this weekend and told him he could come up to the city and check it out if he wanted.  I have been working with Eric for 10 years now.  He is the guy who I first heard talking passionately about marathoning back in 2007.  I think I knew what a marathon was, but I didn't even know that normal people would do such a thing.  Soon after he talked about it though, I ran the San Fran marathon bandit and then swore I would never do that again (but that is a whole other story).  Anyways, Eric spotted me down one of the straight aways and joined in on my slow shuffle.  We chatted for a while.  I was trying to fill him in on what was going on.  He hung around for a while and got a glimpse of our silly sport and then went across the street to check out the Sports Basement.  As soon as he peeled off and I turned the corner and tried to pick up my pace, the legs started to seize up on me.  I couldn't believe it: 5 p.m. and 47 miles in, being as conservative with my pace as possible and switching up muscle groups and everything, and my legs were roasted.  I went back to a slow walk, trying to keep my legs from crumbling from beneath me as I tried to think of what to do next.  When I got the the aid station I grabbed some salt pills and a cold drink and went and sat down for a while.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but I thought that maybe if I just took it easy and tried to get some salt in, maybe it would help.  As I walked the next lap I did little experimental pick ups in pace to see if the legs would do anything.  Fortunately I got them to do a little bit of running right on the edge of what they would take at the time.  Eric saw me during this low, but then also saw as I seemed to pull myself back together.  By the time he left for home it seemed like I had found my running legs again.  I kept taking the salt pills and they really did seem to do something.  Then as the sun went down  and the fog started rolling in, my body got stronger and stronger.  In the twilight I was reaching my high for the day.  It is funny how the highest highs seem to follow the lowest lows, but even though I was pretty beat up and tired, I felt almost giddy as my body seemed to effortlessly glide along.  I'm sure everyone was pretty annoyed with how peppy I was at this point, but I was enjoying the moment.

Jason Reed says hi.  Views of aid station central.

People had some pretty comfy setups.  I don't know how many runners actually took naps in the tents, or whether it was just supporting crew that were camping out for the party...

The fog burning off in the afternoon.
At 8 p.m., or 12 hours in, I crossed the timing mat with 58 miles.  I didn't know whether I was going to make it to 100 because it seemed like a stretch to squeeze another 42 miles out of my body in the next 12 hours that were going to happen through the night and on tired legs, but I knew if I was diligent and just stayed steady, sort of like in the 4 mph challenge, it was totally do-able.

I was pretty much in the zone clicking off the miles until 70 when I realized my stride length was getting shorter and I just didn't have as much pop in my legs.  I decided to take a sit break, remembering the way they seemed to help during the 4 mph challenge.  Loren, our racing team captain, was there cheering us on and helping us out.  He lent me his blanket and I went and sat in cab of John's truck to stay warm as it was pretty cold and windy out.  Then Greg, our club president, who was also helping us out, came over and brought me some awesome food that he had swiped from some banquet he was at earlier that day.  He talked up my daughters who were killing it in running club at Bishop grade school this year in a program that he helps coordinate.  It is pretty hard to feel sorry for yourself or to not want to do well in the race when all of these people really put their energy into helping you...like I said before, the support is great.

When I got back into the fray, I remembered that those sit breaks don't come without a penalty.  The legs were so stiff that it took a whole lap to get them to function properly again.  But then the payoff:  they started to bounce off of the ground again and I was back in business.  As I rounded out my fifth lap post break, I noticed that I was slowing down again.  I kept at it for one more lap and then thought to myself that if I keep doing these breaks and keep clicking off miles the way I was, then 100 was in the bag.  So that was the plan for the rest of the night.  6 laps in-between sit breaks.  Chicken soup while on break, and a small cup of coke every lap.  The coke did wonders with respect to keeping my alert and awake.  I remembered my sleepiness at the 4 mph challenge and I also remembered the lack of available caffeine at that race.  The little shots of coke though were perfect to keep me going through the night.  

I got another shot of energy as the sun came up the next morning.  Then it was just a matter of finishing it off.  I reached 100.8 miles at 23 hours and 19 minutes elapsed and decided I had had enough.  I had had my eyes set on that goal and was satisfied when I made it, so I got my sweats on and sat down and cheered on the rest of the runners as they were going for their own goals (or even racing).  The aid station made me an awesome breakfast burrito that totally made my day.

I know a lot of things I could have done better, but all in all I am really happy with the way it all played out because it gave me confidence that I can actually bounce back from my legs seizing up when the sun is shining.  I think salt pills really might be the way to work through some of those tough spots, and I should really expect to be able to move well into the night.  This is a great event and I will probably do it again sometime.  Probably not next year, but sometime.

There wasn't too much damage from the race.  I have a couple of toes that got blistered up, and various chaffing that is healing up.  The most annoying thing is that I let myself get sun-burned.  I didn't even realize it with the clouds and cool temps, but being out there all day exposed will do it to you.  The muscle soreness and recovery has been average - no issues as far as I can tell yet.  


Chikara, the newly minted course record holder with 132 miles, left it all out on the course.  Including anything he ate...

Pierre thinks it's hilarious.

Garret is happy he beat me again.  He got me at the 4 mph challenge and beat me by a few miles at this one as well.  Idaho for all the marbles...

This guy.  Maybe someone who reads this blog will tell me who he is...

Every mile I was faced with a decision: which bowl to choose from...

William had a special day out there.  Something like 118 miles I think.  First in the 40-50 age group.

Jean toughed out the loops again and improved a couple of miles from last year by running 129.

I'm not usually a big fan of the chotskies but I can use every one of these: coaster, mug, 100 mile buckle baby!